All Chef Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.